Wine Route of the Vineyard Villages on the South Side of Mt Karvounis
The wine route travels through the vineyard villages of the southern side of Mt Ampelos (which the locals call Karvounis). The starting point of the route is the archaeological site of the Samos Heraion, which is located a few kilometres from Pythagoreio. The route could be characterised as a 45-kilometre circular route by road that takes about 90-95 minutes, not counting stops. The route starts at sea level and in the area near the archaeological site of the temple of Hera and the plains of Chora. It gradually climbs to higher points on Mt Ampelos (Karvounis), reaching an altitude of 650 metres, where the traditional vineyard village of Pandroso is located (the locals call it Ano Arvanites), and it continues to mountain vineyards in the areas of Fleves and Kydonies of Pandroso, all the way to the Agriadia area on the road to the tallest peak of Mt Ampelos, Profitis Ilias (at an altitude of 1153 metres).
Starting the route at the Heraion, you will see the plain vineyards and the stafylodocho at the old entrance to the Temple of Hera. Pressing on to Pagondas, via the Koumeika-Heraion rural road and approximately 7 kilometres away (a 13-minute drive), you can see estates with orange trees and lemon trees, as well as some vineyards. You can make a a short stop at Pagondas’ cool square and visit the area’s small Folklore Museum, which has a range of tools and vessels used in cultivation of Samos muscat. From the square it’s a 5-minute walk to the buildings of the old Wine Making Cooperative of Pagondas and the nearby storage spaces.
Wine Route of the Vineyard Villages on the South Side of Mt Karvounis
After Pagondas, you will gradually head up to the area of Koumaradei on the slopes of Mt Ampelos, which is renowned for the pottery workshops in operation there. On the way, there are many points on the winding road that offer a wonderful panoramic view of the lush Kampos (plains) of the Chora, with vineyards, olive trees and citrus tree groves.
Either through the village of Spatharaioi or through the area of Koumaradei, with the renowned pottery workshops, you will reach the vineyard village of Pyrgos, which is famous for producing honey. There, on the left hand side of the main street, you can see the oldest facilities of the Pyrgos Cooperative, as well as the agricultural supply store. You can make a stop at the recreation areas operating in Pyrgos.
Taking the uphill road heading right from Pyrgos, you will drive up to the traditional vineyards of the villages of Mesogio and Pandroso. Along the way you will see numerous terraced mountain vineyards and, at the village entrances, the old cooperative buildings. The more daring among you equipped with suitable vehicles can drive up the dirt road that leads to the chapel of Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah), at the peak of Mt Ampelos and admire the beautiful mountain vineyards along most of the way. From the peak of the mountain you can look out onto the islands, all the way to the shores of Asia Minor.
On your way back down, make a stop at Mesogio village (the locals call it Kato Arvanites) and visit the small characteristic Folklore Museum. You can then continue to Koumaradei and locate the pottery workshop that make the renowned Pythagorean cups. It is also worth visiting the emblematic Monastery of Megali Panagia. Continue to the village of Myli, where the aroma of oranges fills the entire region, and end your journey at the picturesque seaside hamlet of Ireo, for a dip in the sea, some mezes, and a well-earned rest. Don’t forget to visit the archaeological site of the Temple of Hera.
Points of interest
Lowland Vineyard with a view of the Temple of Hera
This is a lowland vineyard growing Samos muscat grapes, owned by a vine-grower member of the Cooperative. Access is easy, whether by car or on foot, as it is 10 minutes from the main road to the Heraion. The dirt trail leading there crosses cultivated fields. The vineyard entrance is gated to protect from wild pigs that would destroy the production. The view from this vineyard, either early in the morning or in the late afternoon, is idyllic, as in the distance you can make out the southern slopes of Mt Ampelos and the unique standing “column” of the Hekatompedon Temple of Hera, which was built on Samos 100 years before the Parthenon in Athens.
Stafylodochos at the old entrance to the Temple of Hera
The stafylodochos at the old entrance to the Temple of Hera is located at the intersection of the main road with the road that used to lead to the Heraion archaeological site. It is easily accessible by vehicle. The road leads to a dead end where you can make a u-turn.
The stafylodochos is well preserved, despite the fact that these delivery systems were already under performing in the 80s and had gradually ceased to operate by 1990. This raised cement tank, approximately 2.5 metres tall, is supported by beams, with a flat surface that served as a loading platform where the grape deliveries were recorded. Currently, the space is occasionally used for the sale of agricultural products by private individuals, and as a place where tourists rest under the shade of the trees.
Pagondas Stafylodochos
On a small detour to the left of the road entering Pagondas, immediately after the trellis vineyard and on a dirt road, with easy access by car (about 10-12 minutes on foot), is the old Pagondas stafylodochos. This is a raised cement platform where the major production of Samos muscat was delivered. Nowadays it has been abandoned and is covered in wild vegetation.
Table Muscat Vineyard – Pagondas
From the area of the hamlet of Heraion, via the Koumeika-Heraion rural road, 7 kilometres away (approximately 13 minutes), is the vineyard village of Pagondas. Along the way you will see farms with orange and lemon trees, as well as some vineyards.
Folklore Museum of Pagondas
You can stop briefly in Pagondas’ cool square and visit the area’s small Folklore Museum, which has a range of tools and vessels used in cultivating Samos muscat, wine storage demijohns, a multitude of folklore records of the region from previous years, as well as a depiction of the interior of Samos homes. The building housing the Folklore Museum of Pagondas has been facing problems due to the major earthquake of 2020.
Old Cooperative of Pagondas
From the square it’s a 5-minute walk to the buildings of the old Wine Making Cooperative of Pagondas and the nearby storage spaces. The space consists of a two-storey building with storage facilities, which received and recorded the entirety of the major production of Samos muscat of the region.
Cooperative and Agricultural Store of Pyrgos
From Koumaradei, following the central road for 4.5 kilometres (about 7-10 minutes), you will reach the kefalochori (head village) of Pyrgos, renowned for its honey production. There, on the left hand side of the main street, you can see the oldest facilities of the Pyrgos Cooperative, as well as the agricultural supply store. The Cooperative of Pyrgos was of pivotal importance, as it gathered and recorded production from all surrounding areas. The Cooperative of Pyrgos was established in 1934 with the founding of the UWC. It ceased operating in 2016, after the lifting of the obligation law.
The Folklore Museum of Mesogio, Former Cooperative
The two-storey building of the old Mesogio Cooperative is located at the entrance of the village, taking a right at the intersection for Pandroso.
The ground floor has been rented privately and is being operated as a traditional café and catering enterprise, while the upper floor that used to house the offices has been successfully transformed into the Folklore Museum of Mesogio by the area’s cultural association. It receives a significant number of visitors every year, who can see the traditional tools and vessels related to the area’s long tradition in vine-growing.
Mesogio Stafylodochos, Thymaria Location
Taking the uphill road heading right from Pyrgos, you will drive up to the traditional vineyards of the villages of Mesogio and Pandroso. The route to Mesogio by car takes you uphill and round corners with very limited visibility. Travelling the 4 kilometres by car takes 10 minutes.
Mountain Vineyards heading to Profitis Ilias, peak of Mt Ampelos
From the vineyard in the Kydonies area, on the way back to Pandroso village, you will find the road that leads to the chapel of Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah), at the peak of Mt Ampelos. On this route, which can only be completed by 4×4 vehicle, one can see the organic mountain vineyards spread out before them, mainly in the Fleves Karvouni and Agriadia locations.
Cooperative of Pandroso
The route from Mesogio village to Pandroso is uphill, with lots of twists and turns that limit visibility, and takes about 4 minutes (it’s only 1 kilometre away).
The old Pandroso Cooperative building is at the entrance of the village, at a location with an idyllic view of the slopes of Mt Ampelos and the mountain vineyards that look like waves on the landscape.
Vagianou Vineyard, Kydonies, Pandroso
Crossing Pandroso (altitude 650 metres) by 4×4 vehicle, one can follow the route to the right, a dirt road that leads to the Kydonies location of Pandroso. There you will find an ancestral low gobelet Samos muscat grape vineyard on dry stone terraces.
Koumaradei Pottery Workshops
From Pagondas, via Myli, head up to the Koumaradei area with the renowned pottery workshops. It takes 21 minutes to get there by car, as it is 12 kilometres up hill, with several turns. The pottery workshops of Koumaradei produce, among other things, the internationally known ‘Cup of Justice’ of Pythagoras, which is based on the hydrostatic law, and, legend has it, was the invention of philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras to teach his students about equity. If anyone poured even a drop more wine and passed the engraved line on the inside of the cup, then it emptied completely, punishing the greedy party.
Panoramic View of the Kampos (plains) of Chora
The road from Pagondas to the area of Koumaradei, despite winding its way uphill, offers a wonderful panoramic view towards the Kampos (plains) of Chora, which used to be the old capital (kefalochori) of Samos One of the most beautiful spots with an unobstructed view is near the Monastery of Megali Panagia. From there, one can look out onto the sea channel between Samos and the shores of Asia Minor, the Samos international airport, as well as the villages on the southern slopes of Mt Ampelos. In the densely vegetated Kampos of Chora one can make out a number of lowland vineyards, olive trees, and vegetable and citrus cultivations.
